Pre nekoliko godina Kate Moss nacrtala je auto - portret koristeci ruz za usne.
Ovih dana portret je prodat privatnom kupcu za 33.600 funti, sto je 61.850 dolara. Cini se - preterano...
Sada, vredi li toliko?
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Pre nekoliko godina Kate Moss nacrtala je auto - portret koristeci ruz za usne.
Ovih dana portret je prodat privatnom kupcu za 33.600 funti, sto je 61.850 dolara. Cini se - preterano...
Sada, vredi li toliko?
Victoria Beckham za Indonezanski Harper's bazaar
Victoria Beckham nasla se na naslovnici Indonezanskog izdanja Harper’s Bazaar za Oktobar.
Slike preuzete sa community.livejournal.com/beckhamsdaily
Victoria Beckham za Indonezanski Harper's bazaar
Victoria Beckham nasla se na naslovnici Indonezanskog izdanja Harper’s Bazaar za Oktobar.
Slike preuzete sa community.livejournal.com/beckhamsdaily
Gucci torbe
Guccio Gucci je 1921. pokrenuo kompaniju koja se bavila kožnom galanterijom i otvorio mali dućan u rodnoj Firenci. Gucci proizvodi su bili spoj elegancije i vrhunske izrade majstora iz Toscane zbog čega su vrlo brzo postali traženi, privlačeći kupce širom svijeta koji su htjeli dobar i otmen proizvod. Već tada proizvodio je torbe, rukavice, cipele, remenje i kupaće kostime.
Tokom rata zbog nedostatka klasičnih materijala Gucci je stvorio poznatu „Bamboo bag“ od trstike koja se u prodaji može naći i danas.
Već '50-tih godina otvorio je svoje prodavnice u Milanu i u New Yorku. Nakon njegove smrti, sinovi su nastavili tradiciju, te se proširili u London, Palm Beach, Paris i Beverly Hils.
Nakon što su Gucci torbe nosile Jackie Kennedy i Liz Taylor postale su nezaobilazan deo visoke mode.
'70-tih godina kompanija je došla u finansijske probleme te se deo prodao i od tada nije u porodicnom vlasništvu.
1994. u Tom Ford postaje kreativni direktor unoseći neke promene i novitete.
2000. godine stvoren je novi original „La Pelle Guccissima“ koža s otisnutim novim logoom koji je nakon toga postao novi zaštitni znak.
Tokom rata zbog nedostatka klasičnih materijala Gucci je stvorio poznatu „Bamboo bag“ od trstike koja se u prodaji može naći i danas.
Već '50-tih godina otvorio je svoje prodavnice u Milanu i u New Yorku. Nakon njegove smrti, sinovi su nastavili tradiciju, te se proširili u London, Palm Beach, Paris i Beverly Hils.
Nakon što su Gucci torbe nosile Jackie Kennedy i Liz Taylor postale su nezaobilazan deo visoke mode.
'70-tih godina kompanija je došla u finansijske probleme te se deo prodao i od tada nije u porodicnom vlasništvu.
1994. u Tom Ford postaje kreativni direktor unoseći neke promene i novitete.
2000. godine stvoren je novi original „La Pelle Guccissima“ koža s otisnutim novim logoom koji je nakon toga postao novi zaštitni znak.
Gucci torbe
Guccio Gucci je 1921. pokrenuo kompaniju koja se bavila kožnom galanterijom i otvorio mali dućan u rodnoj Firenci. Gucci proizvodi su bili spoj elegancije i vrhunske izrade majstora iz Toscane zbog čega su vrlo brzo postali traženi, privlačeći kupce širom svijeta koji su htjeli dobar i otmen proizvod. Već tada proizvodio je torbe, rukavice, cipele, remenje i kupaće kostime.
Tokom rata zbog nedostatka klasičnih materijala Gucci je stvorio poznatu „Bamboo bag“ od trstike koja se u prodaji može naći i danas.
Već '50-tih godina otvorio je svoje prodavnice u Milanu i u New Yorku. Nakon njegove smrti, sinovi su nastavili tradiciju, te se proširili u London, Palm Beach, Paris i Beverly Hils.
Nakon što su Gucci torbe nosile Jackie Kennedy i Liz Taylor postale su nezaobilazan deo visoke mode.
'70-tih godina kompanija je došla u finansijske probleme te se deo prodao i od tada nije u porodicnom vlasništvu.
1994. u Tom Ford postaje kreativni direktor unoseći neke promene i novitete.
2000. godine stvoren je novi original „La Pelle Guccissima“ koža s otisnutim novim logoom koji je nakon toga postao novi zaštitni znak.
Tokom rata zbog nedostatka klasičnih materijala Gucci je stvorio poznatu „Bamboo bag“ od trstike koja se u prodaji može naći i danas.
Već '50-tih godina otvorio je svoje prodavnice u Milanu i u New Yorku. Nakon njegove smrti, sinovi su nastavili tradiciju, te se proširili u London, Palm Beach, Paris i Beverly Hils.
Nakon što su Gucci torbe nosile Jackie Kennedy i Liz Taylor postale su nezaobilazan deo visoke mode.
'70-tih godina kompanija je došla u finansijske probleme te se deo prodao i od tada nije u porodicnom vlasništvu.
1994. u Tom Ford postaje kreativni direktor unoseći neke promene i novitete.
2000. godine stvoren je novi original „La Pelle Guccissima“ koža s otisnutim novim logoom koji je nakon toga postao novi zaštitni znak.
YSL
Jedan od najvećih modnih kreatora XX veka, Yves Saint Laurent, preminuo je u nedelju 1. juna u svojoj 71. godini objavila je Fondacija YSL.
Njegov uticaj i značajna na zvezdanom modnom nebu ostavio je dubok i neizbrisiv trag u svetu mode i luskuza. Brend YSL ostaće zauvek stimbol univerzalnog stila, inovativnosti i možda ponajviše, stvaralačke hrabrosti...
Kraj njegove modne vladavine desio se 2002. godine, kada je njegova modna kuća formalno zatvorena. Formalno abdicirajući u korist imperije GUCCI koja je kupila brend, ostvario je ideju da svi proizvodi YSL, nastave da predstavljaju sinonim za stil i trend...
Njegov život u modnom svetu započeo je veoma rano. Genijalnost koju je ispoljio, praktično odmah pošto se zainteresovao za modu, učinila je da već sa 17 godina, došavši u Pariz iz Alžira - rodjen je u Oranu - postane desna ruka tvorcu novog modnog poratnog poretka Christianu Dioru.
Posle samo tri godine rada za CD, umire veliki maestro, i estetiku i stil brenda Christian Dior, "nasleđuje" upravo mladi dizajner. Našavši se u veoma teškoj ulozi da nadmaši "nenadmašnog" i učini skoro nemoguće, posle samo 12 meseci pojavljuje se sa kolekcijom koju potpisuje za Christian Dior. Poput svog učitelja odlučuje da napravi radikalne izmene i da već izgrađenu siluetu posleratne žene naglašene linije struka i bogatih nabora na suknjama i haljinama potpuno izbriše sa modne scene. Idući ispred svog vremena trasirao je put novoj emancipovanoj, modernoj ženi, željne slobode i dinamike savremenog života. Hrabrim "presecanjem" sa tradicionalnom formom, predstavlja svoju kolekciju "Trapeze" i trijumfalno se penje na upražnjeni modni tron.
Modni svet, koji se već i uljuljkao u ulogu siročeta velikog Diora, u ekstazi glorifikuje mladog sramežljivog kreatora sa naočarima. Nedugo zatim , kada doživljava nervni slom zbog poziva za odluženje vojnog roka, francuska kuća, zarad svog imidža ali i recidiva old fashion stila u odnosu prema skandalima, vrlo brzo zamenjuje princa naslednika sa dizejnerom Marc Boganom. Razočaran i duboko povređen, princ bez krune, povlači se na godinu dana i vida rane otvorivši svoj prvi butik u 14. arondismanu, nedaleko od Šanzelizea. Od tada datira i emotivno poslovna veza sa Pijerom Beržeom koji će do samog kraja koordinisati i sporovoditi sve zamisli koje genije YSL bude kreirao i stvarao...
Njegova prirodana boja i kreativni beg bila je crna. Crna su i tri inicijala (YSL) koja po svetu predstavljaju snagu i moć brenda, crn je i smoking koji je zauvek ostao omiljena "uniforma" francuskom dizajneru koji je sa podjednakom lakoćom oblačio u njega i muškarce i žene... Ipak u trenucima stvaranja njegova paleta je živa i vatrena baš kao što su i njegove, sada već istorijske kolekcije, inspirisane delima Mondriana, Pikasa, Matisa, Van Goga kao i dalekim putovanjima, bogatstvom nasleđa mnogih naroda i kultura koje je tamo otkrivao....
Trag koji je tokom svog rada i delovanja u svetu mode ostavio Yves Saint Laurent nije se samo završavao na trendi kolekcijama i asesoarima... Jedan je od prvih dizajnera mode koji se bavio i sociološkom kritikom društva, upravo kroz svoj rad. U vreme kada je on to počinjao, mnoge nama danas bliske stvari i načini nisu bili niti poznati niti prihvaćeni. Godinama je zbog toga brend YSL sticao i "branio" titulu logoa kome skandali i provokacija nisu bili strani... Kolekcijom "40 -te" za koju je inspiraciju našao upravo u mračnim godinama rata, izazvao je buru reagovanja na "smelost" kojom se upustio u koketiranje sa jednim tako nesrećnim i tužnim periodom za svet. Sa druge strane dobija podršku u velikom broju poklonika koji veličaju njegov rad.
Kampanja za njegov parfem YSL "Homme", kada se 1971. za potrebe iste, slikao nag, bila je šamar, uljuljkanom kvazikonzervativnom društvu i vrednostima koje je savremeni način života prevazilazio i činio paradoksalnim... Ova kampanja ušla je u anale svetskih promotivnih aktivnosti i postigla fantastičan uspeh. Šest godina kasnije (1977) opet je iziritirao javnost svojim parfemom koji je nazvao "OPIUM". Komentari na ime su bili loši i kritički, ali uspeh parfema trijumfalan, sve do današnjih dana...
Veoma mnogo YSL, sarađivao je sa najvećim umetnicima 20. veka. U mnogima je pronalazio prijatelje sa kojima je razmenjivao ideje i načine za svoj umetnički izražaj. Oni sa kojima je najduže sarađivao i družio se bili su Margerit Dira, Žana Koktoa. Ipak, stvar koja je obeležila čitavo njegovo biće je parabola da je YSL bio izuzetno nesrećan čovek koji ni kroz umetnost nije uspeo da sebe "očisti" od unutrašnjih demona koje je nosio do poslednjeg dana. Samo čin kreacije i veza sa Beržeom predstavljali su za njega lepu stranu života. Sve ostalo bilo je sivo i turobno..
Pravi opis njega napisao je upravo njegov emotivni i poslovni oslonac Berže, u sledećih nekoliko reči: Iv se na maestralan način upisao u knjigu francuskih genija i to na jednoj od najznačajnih i najlepših stranica. To bi trebalo da ga učini, neosporno srećnim. Ali ako bi to prihvatili na taj način , onda svakako ignorišemo da kreacija uvek slavi "venčanje" talenta i patnje...
Umoran i bolestan, Iv se 2002. godine povukao. Snimci njegovog poslednjeg pojavljivanja ostaće upamćeni kao trenuci kada se iza njegovih čuvenih crnih kockactih naočara nadvio veo tuge i duboke patnje za onim što ostavlja... Tada je rekao: Upoznao sam strah i užasnu samoću, i one lažne prijatelje koje zovu sedativi i opijati. Bio zarobljen u depresiji i sanatorijumima...
Ovom rečenicom samo se potvrdilo da je u svoj svojoj genijalnosti bio usamljenik koji je duboko patio za nečim još većim i značajnijim. Za slobodom koju mu njegov brend posle nekog vremena nije dozvoljavao i za usponima koje je posle mnogih padova teško osvajao.
Njegov život u modnom svetu započeo je veoma rano. Genijalnost koju je ispoljio, praktično odmah pošto se zainteresovao za modu, učinila je da već sa 17 godina, došavši u Pariz iz Alžira - rodjen je u Oranu - postane desna ruka tvorcu novog modnog poratnog poretka Christianu Dioru.
Posle samo tri godine rada za CD, umire veliki maestro, i estetiku i stil brenda Christian Dior, "nasleđuje" upravo mladi dizajner. Našavši se u veoma teškoj ulozi da nadmaši "nenadmašnog" i učini skoro nemoguće, posle samo 12 meseci pojavljuje se sa kolekcijom koju potpisuje za Christian Dior. Poput svog učitelja odlučuje da napravi radikalne izmene i da već izgrađenu siluetu posleratne žene naglašene linije struka i bogatih nabora na suknjama i haljinama potpuno izbriše sa modne scene. Idući ispred svog vremena trasirao je put novoj emancipovanoj, modernoj ženi, željne slobode i dinamike savremenog života. Hrabrim "presecanjem" sa tradicionalnom formom, predstavlja svoju kolekciju "Trapeze" i trijumfalno se penje na upražnjeni modni tron.
Modni svet, koji se već i uljuljkao u ulogu siročeta velikog Diora, u ekstazi glorifikuje mladog sramežljivog kreatora sa naočarima. Nedugo zatim , kada doživljava nervni slom zbog poziva za odluženje vojnog roka, francuska kuća, zarad svog imidža ali i recidiva old fashion stila u odnosu prema skandalima, vrlo brzo zamenjuje princa naslednika sa dizejnerom Marc Boganom. Razočaran i duboko povređen, princ bez krune, povlači se na godinu dana i vida rane otvorivši svoj prvi butik u 14. arondismanu, nedaleko od Šanzelizea. Od tada datira i emotivno poslovna veza sa Pijerom Beržeom koji će do samog kraja koordinisati i sporovoditi sve zamisli koje genije YSL bude kreirao i stvarao...
Njegova prirodana boja i kreativni beg bila je crna. Crna su i tri inicijala (YSL) koja po svetu predstavljaju snagu i moć brenda, crn je i smoking koji je zauvek ostao omiljena "uniforma" francuskom dizajneru koji je sa podjednakom lakoćom oblačio u njega i muškarce i žene... Ipak u trenucima stvaranja njegova paleta je živa i vatrena baš kao što su i njegove, sada već istorijske kolekcije, inspirisane delima Mondriana, Pikasa, Matisa, Van Goga kao i dalekim putovanjima, bogatstvom nasleđa mnogih naroda i kultura koje je tamo otkrivao....
Trag koji je tokom svog rada i delovanja u svetu mode ostavio Yves Saint Laurent nije se samo završavao na trendi kolekcijama i asesoarima... Jedan je od prvih dizajnera mode koji se bavio i sociološkom kritikom društva, upravo kroz svoj rad. U vreme kada je on to počinjao, mnoge nama danas bliske stvari i načini nisu bili niti poznati niti prihvaćeni. Godinama je zbog toga brend YSL sticao i "branio" titulu logoa kome skandali i provokacija nisu bili strani... Kolekcijom "40 -te" za koju je inspiraciju našao upravo u mračnim godinama rata, izazvao je buru reagovanja na "smelost" kojom se upustio u koketiranje sa jednim tako nesrećnim i tužnim periodom za svet. Sa druge strane dobija podršku u velikom broju poklonika koji veličaju njegov rad.
Kampanja za njegov parfem YSL "Homme", kada se 1971. za potrebe iste, slikao nag, bila je šamar, uljuljkanom kvazikonzervativnom društvu i vrednostima koje je savremeni način života prevazilazio i činio paradoksalnim... Ova kampanja ušla je u anale svetskih promotivnih aktivnosti i postigla fantastičan uspeh. Šest godina kasnije (1977) opet je iziritirao javnost svojim parfemom koji je nazvao "OPIUM". Komentari na ime su bili loši i kritički, ali uspeh parfema trijumfalan, sve do današnjih dana...
Veoma mnogo YSL, sarađivao je sa najvećim umetnicima 20. veka. U mnogima je pronalazio prijatelje sa kojima je razmenjivao ideje i načine za svoj umetnički izražaj. Oni sa kojima je najduže sarađivao i družio se bili su Margerit Dira, Žana Koktoa. Ipak, stvar koja je obeležila čitavo njegovo biće je parabola da je YSL bio izuzetno nesrećan čovek koji ni kroz umetnost nije uspeo da sebe "očisti" od unutrašnjih demona koje je nosio do poslednjeg dana. Samo čin kreacije i veza sa Beržeom predstavljali su za njega lepu stranu života. Sve ostalo bilo je sivo i turobno..
Pravi opis njega napisao je upravo njegov emotivni i poslovni oslonac Berže, u sledećih nekoliko reči: Iv se na maestralan način upisao u knjigu francuskih genija i to na jednoj od najznačajnih i najlepših stranica. To bi trebalo da ga učini, neosporno srećnim. Ali ako bi to prihvatili na taj način , onda svakako ignorišemo da kreacija uvek slavi "venčanje" talenta i patnje...
Umoran i bolestan, Iv se 2002. godine povukao. Snimci njegovog poslednjeg pojavljivanja ostaće upamćeni kao trenuci kada se iza njegovih čuvenih crnih kockactih naočara nadvio veo tuge i duboke patnje za onim što ostavlja... Tada je rekao: Upoznao sam strah i užasnu samoću, i one lažne prijatelje koje zovu sedativi i opijati. Bio zarobljen u depresiji i sanatorijumima...
Ovom rečenicom samo se potvrdilo da je u svoj svojoj genijalnosti bio usamljenik koji je duboko patio za nečim još većim i značajnijim. Za slobodom koju mu njegov brend posle nekog vremena nije dozvoljavao i za usponima koje je posle mnogih padova teško osvajao.
Tekst preuzet sa Posh Magazina
YSL
Jedan od najvećih modnih kreatora XX veka, Yves Saint Laurent, preminuo je u nedelju 1. juna u svojoj 71. godini objavila je Fondacija YSL.
Njegov uticaj i značajna na zvezdanom modnom nebu ostavio je dubok i neizbrisiv trag u svetu mode i luskuza. Brend YSL ostaće zauvek stimbol univerzalnog stila, inovativnosti i možda ponajviše, stvaralačke hrabrosti...
Kraj njegove modne vladavine desio se 2002. godine, kada je njegova modna kuća formalno zatvorena. Formalno abdicirajući u korist imperije GUCCI koja je kupila brend, ostvario je ideju da svi proizvodi YSL, nastave da predstavljaju sinonim za stil i trend...
Njegov život u modnom svetu započeo je veoma rano. Genijalnost koju je ispoljio, praktično odmah pošto se zainteresovao za modu, učinila je da već sa 17 godina, došavši u Pariz iz Alžira - rodjen je u Oranu - postane desna ruka tvorcu novog modnog poratnog poretka Christianu Dioru.
Posle samo tri godine rada za CD, umire veliki maestro, i estetiku i stil brenda Christian Dior, "nasleđuje" upravo mladi dizajner. Našavši se u veoma teškoj ulozi da nadmaši "nenadmašnog" i učini skoro nemoguće, posle samo 12 meseci pojavljuje se sa kolekcijom koju potpisuje za Christian Dior. Poput svog učitelja odlučuje da napravi radikalne izmene i da već izgrađenu siluetu posleratne žene naglašene linije struka i bogatih nabora na suknjama i haljinama potpuno izbriše sa modne scene. Idući ispred svog vremena trasirao je put novoj emancipovanoj, modernoj ženi, željne slobode i dinamike savremenog života. Hrabrim "presecanjem" sa tradicionalnom formom, predstavlja svoju kolekciju "Trapeze" i trijumfalno se penje na upražnjeni modni tron.
Modni svet, koji se već i uljuljkao u ulogu siročeta velikog Diora, u ekstazi glorifikuje mladog sramežljivog kreatora sa naočarima. Nedugo zatim , kada doživljava nervni slom zbog poziva za odluženje vojnog roka, francuska kuća, zarad svog imidža ali i recidiva old fashion stila u odnosu prema skandalima, vrlo brzo zamenjuje princa naslednika sa dizejnerom Marc Boganom. Razočaran i duboko povređen, princ bez krune, povlači se na godinu dana i vida rane otvorivši svoj prvi butik u 14. arondismanu, nedaleko od Šanzelizea. Od tada datira i emotivno poslovna veza sa Pijerom Beržeom koji će do samog kraja koordinisati i sporovoditi sve zamisli koje genije YSL bude kreirao i stvarao...
Njegova prirodana boja i kreativni beg bila je crna. Crna su i tri inicijala (YSL) koja po svetu predstavljaju snagu i moć brenda, crn je i smoking koji je zauvek ostao omiljena "uniforma" francuskom dizajneru koji je sa podjednakom lakoćom oblačio u njega i muškarce i žene... Ipak u trenucima stvaranja njegova paleta je živa i vatrena baš kao što su i njegove, sada već istorijske kolekcije, inspirisane delima Mondriana, Pikasa, Matisa, Van Goga kao i dalekim putovanjima, bogatstvom nasleđa mnogih naroda i kultura koje je tamo otkrivao....
Trag koji je tokom svog rada i delovanja u svetu mode ostavio Yves Saint Laurent nije se samo završavao na trendi kolekcijama i asesoarima... Jedan je od prvih dizajnera mode koji se bavio i sociološkom kritikom društva, upravo kroz svoj rad. U vreme kada je on to počinjao, mnoge nama danas bliske stvari i načini nisu bili niti poznati niti prihvaćeni. Godinama je zbog toga brend YSL sticao i "branio" titulu logoa kome skandali i provokacija nisu bili strani... Kolekcijom "40 -te" za koju je inspiraciju našao upravo u mračnim godinama rata, izazvao je buru reagovanja na "smelost" kojom se upustio u koketiranje sa jednim tako nesrećnim i tužnim periodom za svet. Sa druge strane dobija podršku u velikom broju poklonika koji veličaju njegov rad.
Kampanja za njegov parfem YSL "Homme", kada se 1971. za potrebe iste, slikao nag, bila je šamar, uljuljkanom kvazikonzervativnom društvu i vrednostima koje je savremeni način života prevazilazio i činio paradoksalnim... Ova kampanja ušla je u anale svetskih promotivnih aktivnosti i postigla fantastičan uspeh. Šest godina kasnije (1977) opet je iziritirao javnost svojim parfemom koji je nazvao "OPIUM". Komentari na ime su bili loši i kritički, ali uspeh parfema trijumfalan, sve do današnjih dana...
Veoma mnogo YSL, sarađivao je sa najvećim umetnicima 20. veka. U mnogima je pronalazio prijatelje sa kojima je razmenjivao ideje i načine za svoj umetnički izražaj. Oni sa kojima je najduže sarađivao i družio se bili su Margerit Dira, Žana Koktoa. Ipak, stvar koja je obeležila čitavo njegovo biće je parabola da je YSL bio izuzetno nesrećan čovek koji ni kroz umetnost nije uspeo da sebe "očisti" od unutrašnjih demona koje je nosio do poslednjeg dana. Samo čin kreacije i veza sa Beržeom predstavljali su za njega lepu stranu života. Sve ostalo bilo je sivo i turobno..
Pravi opis njega napisao je upravo njegov emotivni i poslovni oslonac Berže, u sledećih nekoliko reči: Iv se na maestralan način upisao u knjigu francuskih genija i to na jednoj od najznačajnih i najlepših stranica. To bi trebalo da ga učini, neosporno srećnim. Ali ako bi to prihvatili na taj način , onda svakako ignorišemo da kreacija uvek slavi "venčanje" talenta i patnje...
Umoran i bolestan, Iv se 2002. godine povukao. Snimci njegovog poslednjeg pojavljivanja ostaće upamćeni kao trenuci kada se iza njegovih čuvenih crnih kockactih naočara nadvio veo tuge i duboke patnje za onim što ostavlja... Tada je rekao: Upoznao sam strah i užasnu samoću, i one lažne prijatelje koje zovu sedativi i opijati. Bio zarobljen u depresiji i sanatorijumima...
Ovom rečenicom samo se potvrdilo da je u svoj svojoj genijalnosti bio usamljenik koji je duboko patio za nečim još većim i značajnijim. Za slobodom koju mu njegov brend posle nekog vremena nije dozvoljavao i za usponima koje je posle mnogih padova teško osvajao.
Njegov život u modnom svetu započeo je veoma rano. Genijalnost koju je ispoljio, praktično odmah pošto se zainteresovao za modu, učinila je da već sa 17 godina, došavši u Pariz iz Alžira - rodjen je u Oranu - postane desna ruka tvorcu novog modnog poratnog poretka Christianu Dioru.
Posle samo tri godine rada za CD, umire veliki maestro, i estetiku i stil brenda Christian Dior, "nasleđuje" upravo mladi dizajner. Našavši se u veoma teškoj ulozi da nadmaši "nenadmašnog" i učini skoro nemoguće, posle samo 12 meseci pojavljuje se sa kolekcijom koju potpisuje za Christian Dior. Poput svog učitelja odlučuje da napravi radikalne izmene i da već izgrađenu siluetu posleratne žene naglašene linije struka i bogatih nabora na suknjama i haljinama potpuno izbriše sa modne scene. Idući ispred svog vremena trasirao je put novoj emancipovanoj, modernoj ženi, željne slobode i dinamike savremenog života. Hrabrim "presecanjem" sa tradicionalnom formom, predstavlja svoju kolekciju "Trapeze" i trijumfalno se penje na upražnjeni modni tron.
Modni svet, koji se već i uljuljkao u ulogu siročeta velikog Diora, u ekstazi glorifikuje mladog sramežljivog kreatora sa naočarima. Nedugo zatim , kada doživljava nervni slom zbog poziva za odluženje vojnog roka, francuska kuća, zarad svog imidža ali i recidiva old fashion stila u odnosu prema skandalima, vrlo brzo zamenjuje princa naslednika sa dizejnerom Marc Boganom. Razočaran i duboko povređen, princ bez krune, povlači se na godinu dana i vida rane otvorivši svoj prvi butik u 14. arondismanu, nedaleko od Šanzelizea. Od tada datira i emotivno poslovna veza sa Pijerom Beržeom koji će do samog kraja koordinisati i sporovoditi sve zamisli koje genije YSL bude kreirao i stvarao...
Njegova prirodana boja i kreativni beg bila je crna. Crna su i tri inicijala (YSL) koja po svetu predstavljaju snagu i moć brenda, crn je i smoking koji je zauvek ostao omiljena "uniforma" francuskom dizajneru koji je sa podjednakom lakoćom oblačio u njega i muškarce i žene... Ipak u trenucima stvaranja njegova paleta je živa i vatrena baš kao što su i njegove, sada već istorijske kolekcije, inspirisane delima Mondriana, Pikasa, Matisa, Van Goga kao i dalekim putovanjima, bogatstvom nasleđa mnogih naroda i kultura koje je tamo otkrivao....
Trag koji je tokom svog rada i delovanja u svetu mode ostavio Yves Saint Laurent nije se samo završavao na trendi kolekcijama i asesoarima... Jedan je od prvih dizajnera mode koji se bavio i sociološkom kritikom društva, upravo kroz svoj rad. U vreme kada je on to počinjao, mnoge nama danas bliske stvari i načini nisu bili niti poznati niti prihvaćeni. Godinama je zbog toga brend YSL sticao i "branio" titulu logoa kome skandali i provokacija nisu bili strani... Kolekcijom "40 -te" za koju je inspiraciju našao upravo u mračnim godinama rata, izazvao je buru reagovanja na "smelost" kojom se upustio u koketiranje sa jednim tako nesrećnim i tužnim periodom za svet. Sa druge strane dobija podršku u velikom broju poklonika koji veličaju njegov rad.
Kampanja za njegov parfem YSL "Homme", kada se 1971. za potrebe iste, slikao nag, bila je šamar, uljuljkanom kvazikonzervativnom društvu i vrednostima koje je savremeni način života prevazilazio i činio paradoksalnim... Ova kampanja ušla je u anale svetskih promotivnih aktivnosti i postigla fantastičan uspeh. Šest godina kasnije (1977) opet je iziritirao javnost svojim parfemom koji je nazvao "OPIUM". Komentari na ime su bili loši i kritički, ali uspeh parfema trijumfalan, sve do današnjih dana...
Veoma mnogo YSL, sarađivao je sa najvećim umetnicima 20. veka. U mnogima je pronalazio prijatelje sa kojima je razmenjivao ideje i načine za svoj umetnički izražaj. Oni sa kojima je najduže sarađivao i družio se bili su Margerit Dira, Žana Koktoa. Ipak, stvar koja je obeležila čitavo njegovo biće je parabola da je YSL bio izuzetno nesrećan čovek koji ni kroz umetnost nije uspeo da sebe "očisti" od unutrašnjih demona koje je nosio do poslednjeg dana. Samo čin kreacije i veza sa Beržeom predstavljali su za njega lepu stranu života. Sve ostalo bilo je sivo i turobno..
Pravi opis njega napisao je upravo njegov emotivni i poslovni oslonac Berže, u sledećih nekoliko reči: Iv se na maestralan način upisao u knjigu francuskih genija i to na jednoj od najznačajnih i najlepših stranica. To bi trebalo da ga učini, neosporno srećnim. Ali ako bi to prihvatili na taj način , onda svakako ignorišemo da kreacija uvek slavi "venčanje" talenta i patnje...
Umoran i bolestan, Iv se 2002. godine povukao. Snimci njegovog poslednjeg pojavljivanja ostaće upamćeni kao trenuci kada se iza njegovih čuvenih crnih kockactih naočara nadvio veo tuge i duboke patnje za onim što ostavlja... Tada je rekao: Upoznao sam strah i užasnu samoću, i one lažne prijatelje koje zovu sedativi i opijati. Bio zarobljen u depresiji i sanatorijumima...
Ovom rečenicom samo se potvrdilo da je u svoj svojoj genijalnosti bio usamljenik koji je duboko patio za nečim još većim i značajnijim. Za slobodom koju mu njegov brend posle nekog vremena nije dozvoljavao i za usponima koje je posle mnogih padova teško osvajao.
Tekst preuzet sa Posh Magazina
On the Street.....Hard Angles- Soft Edges, Paris
Usually the clothes provide the hard edges and the hair the soft edges. I love how Vika has turned that concept upside down
Monday, September 29, 2008
Paris S/S 09: Nina Ricci
When I was a kid, I'd somehow got the impression that Nina Ricci was for old people (yes, I got started into fashion very early). I am definitely much wiser now (either that or Olivier Theysken performed a miracle), because the Nina Ricci collection this season was anything but old.
There were lots of tulles and leggings. The color palette was a nuetral cream, pale and nude. The shape of the skirts, short and modern in the front, but soft and overflowing behind them, were beautiful. There was also a big shoulder silohoeutte thing going on that contrasted well with the soft flows of the dresses. I especially loved the white big shoulder leather jacket (left) over the super feminine dress.
The rest of the runway was interesting. There were lots of shorts and t-shirts, and leotard looking outfits (left), that looked more like day to day home wear (or ballet costumes) than ready-to-wear. Then there were super heroe inspired ball gowns. Perhaps this is an extension of Christina Ricci's gorgeous red super heroe dress for the Met Costume Institute Gala this year?
Image Source: Style.com
There were lots of tulles and leggings. The color palette was a nuetral cream, pale and nude. The shape of the skirts, short and modern in the front, but soft and overflowing behind them, were beautiful. There was also a big shoulder silohoeutte thing going on that contrasted well with the soft flows of the dresses. I especially loved the white big shoulder leather jacket (left) over the super feminine dress. 
The rest of the runway was interesting. There were lots of shorts and t-shirts, and leotard looking outfits (left), that looked more like day to day home wear (or ballet costumes) than ready-to-wear. Then there were super heroe inspired ball gowns. Perhaps this is an extension of Christina Ricci's gorgeous red super heroe dress for the Met Costume Institute Gala this year?Image Source: Style.com
On the Street.....Checks & Stripes, Milano
I love everything here, the stripe with the check - I'm not sure if it even "goes together" but when it looks this good why even ask.
I also really love the club collar shirt, so often they come off looking costumey but here it looks so natural.
On the Street.....Pleated Pants, Milano
I love seeing pleated pants again , especially when they are worn this elegantly.
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Ctrl BG: A Shortcut to Financial News 9/28
Since I enjoyed writing the last post so much, I've decided to continue to do so. It has proven to be a great way to help me put everything into perspective and it's been fascinating reading what everyone else thinks as well. Again, feel free to correct me and put in your two cents, as obviously, I am no expert. I'm just a girl who happens to be interested in the current state of the economy.
Last Sunday night, Goldman Sachs (GS) and Morgan Stanley (MS) were approved by the Fed to become bank holding firms, officially ending the era of the independent investment banking model on Wall Street. They will now be able to open their own commercial banking arms and take in deposits, which they can then use to back up their investment banking operations- as JP Morgan, Bank of America (BofA) etc already does- thus ending investor concerns about the sustainability of their business model model. They now also have permanent access to borrow federal money (instead of within the window temporarily opened for them) and can become a FDIC insured bank, which insures indivisuals up to $100,000 of bank deposits. The following day, MS announced that they were getting as much as $8.5 billion of cash injection from Japan's Mitsubishi UFJ Financial Group (MUFG) in exchange for up to 20% equity stake in MS, further fortifying their position. I guess the deal with China fell through (or were the Chinese getting too greedy and the US govt didn't like that?). This is probably a better move anyway, since MUFG is the world's No. 2 bank by deposits, so surely it will help MS's transition into commercial banking go more smoothly. MS apparently already has about $36 billion in bank deposits from their private wealth management (PWM) business and are looking to expand into Asia. Or so, that's what CNBC said, but I didn't know PWM deposits count as bank deposits, but if they do, I guess this means that MS are looking to expand their PWM business in Asia. Or perhaps this $36 billion comes from their Utah-base industrial bank, which will be converting into a national banking association, names the Morgan Stanley Bank, National Association? Goldman Sachs' approach is must easier to understand (or so I think). They currently already have two deposit taking subsidiaries, with about $20 billion in deposits, and plan to create a new one called GS Bank USA, that will have more than $150 billion of assets.
This conversion is not all good and dandy though. Becoming a bank holding also puts both banks under more intense scrutiny and regulations from the Fed, which will probably limit their proprietary trading capacities (the division where they trade company assets like a hedge fund, taking on great risks), which happens to be one of their most lucrative divisions. I don't know about MS but personally I'm feeling quite optimistic about GS. On Tuesday, Warren Buffet invested $5 billion in GS preferred stocks and will also recieved warrants to purchase another $5 billion in common stock within the next 5 years- effectively give him about a 10% stake in GS. They also raised another $5 billion from a public stock offering, all within a few days. This and Buffet's approval, which in the investment world is the equivalent of getting Anna Wintour's approval in the fashion world, make me quite optimistic. Besides, I have always had great confidence in the power of brand image, Buffet just likes to call it "franchise."
On Thursday, Washington Mutual (WaMu), was seized by the FDIC, making it the biggest banking failure ever. Within 9 days, customers withdrew about $16.7 million in deposits from WaMu, literally breaking the bank. JP Morgan picked up WaMu's banking assets for only $1.9 billion. JP has had its eye on WaMu's operations in CA and FL for a while, and had offered for them in March, but was rejected in favor of a capital injection from TPG private equity (whoops!). It seems like JP got yet another bargain. JP is not the only one who got a sweet deal in all this however. It appears that Mr. Alan Fishman, WaMu's CEO for only 2 weeks, is eligible for $11.6 million in cash severance AND get's to keep his $7.5 million signing bonus. Not bad for two weeks worth of work.
It seems that the financial tsunami is expanding abroad too. Fortis, the largest Belgian financial-services firm, just received an $11.2 billion euro bailout from Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg in exchange for 49% stakes in the Fortis in their respective countries. It's almost like the European version of AIG.
The next bank on the chopping block is Wachovia- funny since a week ago they were in talks to merge with MS. Citigroup and Wells Fargo are currently in a bidding war over a possible emergency takeover of Wachovia, since it's stocks dropped dramatically on Friday.
While all this was going on, politicians were hard at "work" trying to get the $700 billion bailout bill to pass Congress. I'm not that into politics, but even I tuned in Wednesday morning to hear Paulson and Bernanke defend their case to the people at Congress. I'm not sure how politics usually go, but to my untrained ears, it sounded like a verbal merry-go-around, placing blames and trying to trick each other into saying something wrong. A members ask a simple yes/no question, Paulson/Bernanke would answer in a very roundabout way which prompts the member to ask, "so was that a yes or a no?" to which they'd repeat what they'd just said again. This would go on until the time is up or someone finally gives up from the frustration of it all. No wonder it takes them months to get a bill to past. I'd imagined it to be more diplomatic and sophisticated. Anyway, I think the gist was that people didn't think taxpayers should have to bailout Wall Street (and individual homeowners) for taking too on stupid risks. But they had to do something. So they moved onto putting clauses on the plan, for oversight to monitor the use of the money, a cap on CEO pays and for warrants in companies who will be using this plan, so taxpayers would at least get something back for the $700 billion they spent. There was a gliche, when a bunch of Republicans rejected the plan and proposed some other plan to privately insure mortgage backed securities (there was shouting involved!), but it sounds like they're back on track now and a bill will be voted on Monday.
Personally I don't know what to think about this bill. On one hand, I don't think tax payers should have to bail out people who took on unnecessary stupid risks and expect everyone else to wipe up their mess when things go down just because the mess is big enough. As if our future generations didn't already have a big enough debt to clear up already, with the war and the social security problem etc. but now we have this. On the other hand, just like a bad trend, someone has to step in and put a stop to it before it spreads through the population. With the newly added clauses, it's the next best step there is. By taking the distressed debts out of "weak" hands and into "strong" hands, they might even make money in the future when the housing prices go back up! Besides, if the likes of Paulson, Bernanke and Buffet, says this is a sound plan, who am I to gainsay the experts?
Last Sunday night, Goldman Sachs (GS) and Morgan Stanley (MS) were approved by the Fed to become bank holding firms, officially ending the era of the independent investment banking model on Wall Street. They will now be able to open their own commercial banking arms and take in deposits, which they can then use to back up their investment banking operations- as JP Morgan, Bank of America (BofA) etc already does- thus ending investor concerns about the sustainability of their business model model. They now also have permanent access to borrow federal money (instead of within the window temporarily opened for them) and can become a FDIC insured bank, which insures indivisuals up to $100,000 of bank deposits. The following day, MS announced that they were getting as much as $8.5 billion of cash injection from Japan's Mitsubishi UFJ Financial Group (MUFG) in exchange for up to 20% equity stake in MS, further fortifying their position. I guess the deal with China fell through (or were the Chinese getting too greedy and the US govt didn't like that?). This is probably a better move anyway, since MUFG is the world's No. 2 bank by deposits, so surely it will help MS's transition into commercial banking go more smoothly. MS apparently already has about $36 billion in bank deposits from their private wealth management (PWM) business and are looking to expand into Asia. Or so, that's what CNBC said, but I didn't know PWM deposits count as bank deposits, but if they do, I guess this means that MS are looking to expand their PWM business in Asia. Or perhaps this $36 billion comes from their Utah-base industrial bank, which will be converting into a national banking association, names the Morgan Stanley Bank, National Association? Goldman Sachs' approach is must easier to understand (or so I think). They currently already have two deposit taking subsidiaries, with about $20 billion in deposits, and plan to create a new one called GS Bank USA, that will have more than $150 billion of assets.
This conversion is not all good and dandy though. Becoming a bank holding also puts both banks under more intense scrutiny and regulations from the Fed, which will probably limit their proprietary trading capacities (the division where they trade company assets like a hedge fund, taking on great risks), which happens to be one of their most lucrative divisions. I don't know about MS but personally I'm feeling quite optimistic about GS. On Tuesday, Warren Buffet invested $5 billion in GS preferred stocks and will also recieved warrants to purchase another $5 billion in common stock within the next 5 years- effectively give him about a 10% stake in GS. They also raised another $5 billion from a public stock offering, all within a few days. This and Buffet's approval, which in the investment world is the equivalent of getting Anna Wintour's approval in the fashion world, make me quite optimistic. Besides, I have always had great confidence in the power of brand image, Buffet just likes to call it "franchise."
On Thursday, Washington Mutual (WaMu), was seized by the FDIC, making it the biggest banking failure ever. Within 9 days, customers withdrew about $16.7 million in deposits from WaMu, literally breaking the bank. JP Morgan picked up WaMu's banking assets for only $1.9 billion. JP has had its eye on WaMu's operations in CA and FL for a while, and had offered for them in March, but was rejected in favor of a capital injection from TPG private equity (whoops!). It seems like JP got yet another bargain. JP is not the only one who got a sweet deal in all this however. It appears that Mr. Alan Fishman, WaMu's CEO for only 2 weeks, is eligible for $11.6 million in cash severance AND get's to keep his $7.5 million signing bonus. Not bad for two weeks worth of work.
It seems that the financial tsunami is expanding abroad too. Fortis, the largest Belgian financial-services firm, just received an $11.2 billion euro bailout from Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg in exchange for 49% stakes in the Fortis in their respective countries. It's almost like the European version of AIG.
The next bank on the chopping block is Wachovia- funny since a week ago they were in talks to merge with MS. Citigroup and Wells Fargo are currently in a bidding war over a possible emergency takeover of Wachovia, since it's stocks dropped dramatically on Friday.
While all this was going on, politicians were hard at "work" trying to get the $700 billion bailout bill to pass Congress. I'm not that into politics, but even I tuned in Wednesday morning to hear Paulson and Bernanke defend their case to the people at Congress. I'm not sure how politics usually go, but to my untrained ears, it sounded like a verbal merry-go-around, placing blames and trying to trick each other into saying something wrong. A members ask a simple yes/no question, Paulson/Bernanke would answer in a very roundabout way which prompts the member to ask, "so was that a yes or a no?" to which they'd repeat what they'd just said again. This would go on until the time is up or someone finally gives up from the frustration of it all. No wonder it takes them months to get a bill to past. I'd imagined it to be more diplomatic and sophisticated. Anyway, I think the gist was that people didn't think taxpayers should have to bailout Wall Street (and individual homeowners) for taking too on stupid risks. But they had to do something. So they moved onto putting clauses on the plan, for oversight to monitor the use of the money, a cap on CEO pays and for warrants in companies who will be using this plan, so taxpayers would at least get something back for the $700 billion they spent. There was a gliche, when a bunch of Republicans rejected the plan and proposed some other plan to privately insure mortgage backed securities (there was shouting involved!), but it sounds like they're back on track now and a bill will be voted on Monday.
Personally I don't know what to think about this bill. On one hand, I don't think tax payers should have to bail out people who took on unnecessary stupid risks and expect everyone else to wipe up their mess when things go down just because the mess is big enough. As if our future generations didn't already have a big enough debt to clear up already, with the war and the social security problem etc. but now we have this. On the other hand, just like a bad trend, someone has to step in and put a stop to it before it spreads through the population. With the newly added clauses, it's the next best step there is. By taking the distressed debts out of "weak" hands and into "strong" hands, they might even make money in the future when the housing prices go back up! Besides, if the likes of Paulson, Bernanke and Buffet, says this is a sound plan, who am I to gainsay the experts?
Friday, September 26, 2008
Thursday, September 25, 2008
On the Street.....Near the Duomo, Milano
I have been up every night till 2 or 3am working on images since I arrived in Milan. As you can imagine I am pretty exhausted but the story that goes with this image is very cute so I will try to write it tonight or on the train to Paris.
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Claudine Pumps by Coach
My first reaction upon seeing this season's peep-toe winter booties was EW. That is just unnatural, completely against the laws and purpose of boots! Your toes will definitely freeze off if you wear this in winter! 
And so when I first saw these Coach Claudine pumps, I immediately put a no to it. Why would they ruin a perfectly nice pair of pumps and put a random peep-toe on it? 
I wasn't even swayed when I saw my favourite Gossip Girl, B, wearing them on the set. To be honest, this is not one of her best outfits. To begin with it doesn't look very flattering on her. Her waist looks big (even though it's belted) and the length of her skirt makes her look short (or is it this picture?). Her top looks summery while her scarf and skirt looks wintery. The shoes is just the child of both these looks.
But then I stared at the picture of these pumps some more and it really started to grow on me. The masculine Oxford style is made softened by the satin bow and the slim and elegant shape of the heel. The mini platform in the front makes these four inch pumps more comfortable and wearable (or so I hope!). The combination of suede, satin and patent leather is very clever. The patent is even neatly placed to wrap around the suede parts to protect it from dirt! The whole package is just very nice!
As for the peep toe, I guess in the world of fashion, there is no such thing as being weather appropriate. I can always wear colored stockings inside for warmth and some interesting color. And if you try to imagine these pumps without the peep toes, you must admit, it IS missing out something. Besides, it looks like peep-toe oxford booties are here to stay, judging from the S/S 09 Burberry Prorsum runway.
When it comes down to it, these are definitely trend shoes and not "investment" shoes. Personally, even though I'm coming around to it, I'm still not sure if they're not too weird for wear. What do you think? Is this an embraceable trend or should we shun it aside and hope it goes away?
Image Source: Coach.com
And so when I first saw these Coach Claudine pumps, I immediately put a no to it. Why would they ruin a perfectly nice pair of pumps and put a random peep-toe on it? 
I wasn't even swayed when I saw my favourite Gossip Girl, B, wearing them on the set. To be honest, this is not one of her best outfits. To begin with it doesn't look very flattering on her. Her waist looks big (even though it's belted) and the length of her skirt makes her look short (or is it this picture?). Her top looks summery while her scarf and skirt looks wintery. The shoes is just the child of both these looks.But then I stared at the picture of these pumps some more and it really started to grow on me. The masculine Oxford style is made softened by the satin bow and the slim and elegant shape of the heel. The mini platform in the front makes these four inch pumps more comfortable and wearable (or so I hope!). The combination of suede, satin and patent leather is very clever. The patent is even neatly placed to wrap around the suede parts to protect it from dirt! The whole package is just very nice!
As for the peep toe, I guess in the world of fashion, there is no such thing as being weather appropriate. I can always wear colored stockings inside for warmth and some interesting color. And if you try to imagine these pumps without the peep toes, you must admit, it IS missing out something. Besides, it looks like peep-toe oxford booties are here to stay, judging from the S/S 09 Burberry Prorsum runway.
When it comes down to it, these are definitely trend shoes and not "investment" shoes. Personally, even though I'm coming around to it, I'm still not sure if they're not too weird for wear. What do you think? Is this an embraceable trend or should we shun it aside and hope it goes away?
Image Source: Coach.com
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
Totally Selfish Shopping Post, Milan
Love the shape of this jacket and really love the purple color.
Monday, September 22, 2008
Milan S/S 09: Burberry Prorsum
I love Christopher Bailey. He revamped the Burberry checks and made them cool again and he's just looks like such a cutie! But even that didn't stop me from being disappointed in his latest collection. It was a depressing show.
The models with their long trench coats and floppy hats almost look like those creepy nudists on the streets. The dreary colors didn't help (I thought it was supposed to be a spring/summer collection?). I could see some bits and pieces of the effortlessly chic look here and there, with the long cardigans and skinny pants (left), but the rest kind of just blended together into a muddy haze. The designs were not bad, but it was just not very interesting or inspiring. It was like there were 52 versions of the same look. Oh wait, that's not quite true. One model stuck out in particular- in addition to being drenched upon, she looked like she took an extra role in the mud.... and accidentally got dead leaves and branches stuck on her coat (right).
Oh and check out the shoes. It appears that not only do we now have peep-toe oxford shoes, but we will have peep-toe-sling-back oxford shoes very soon too! More on how I feel about these later.......As for the color of these shoes, it is absolutely ugh, but I suppose then you wouldn't have to worry about getting it dirty from rolling in the mud!
Image Source: Style.com
The models with their long trench coats and floppy hats almost look like those creepy nudists on the streets. The dreary colors didn't help (I thought it was supposed to be a spring/summer collection?). I could see some bits and pieces of the effortlessly chic look here and there, with the long cardigans and skinny pants (left), but the rest kind of just blended together into a muddy haze. The designs were not bad, but it was just not very interesting or inspiring. It was like there were 52 versions of the same look. Oh wait, that's not quite true. One model stuck out in particular- in addition to being drenched upon, she looked like she took an extra role in the mud.... and accidentally got dead leaves and branches stuck on her coat (right).
Oh and check out the shoes. It appears that not only do we now have peep-toe oxford shoes, but we will have peep-toe-sling-back oxford shoes very soon too! More on how I feel about these later.......As for the color of these shoes, it is absolutely ugh, but I suppose then you wouldn't have to worry about getting it dirty from rolling in the mud! Image Source: Style.com
Emmy Awards 2008
OK, honestly I wasn't interested in the Emmy's this year (because there is simply so many more interesting news right now, like the financial news and the China milk scandal.) But the one thing that I did want to know about the Emmy's was that Tina Fey, Alec Baldman and 30 Rock won four 'big' awards -so yay for them!
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