Les Allures de Chanel: 2011 Chanel Couture 2011

Sorry for the small absence mes cheris, life has been more than hectic lately and I'm just praying for a regular schedule again soon. But thank you for remaining faithful while I wind this crazy road called life!
Karl Lagerfeld just wrapped the 2011 Chanel Couture show: Les Allures de Chanel and alluring it was! Drawing inspiration from film noire and mapping through the life of Coco Chanel herself, Lagerfeld created a beautiful collection.

{merci style.com}

 Keeping with the traditional tweed suits but playing with proportion, 

many looks showcased a peplum skirt or some form of attention to the hips. 

 I really liked the throwback dresses that referenced the 1920's 

which also held a resounding theme in this collection. 

Karl Lagerfeld certainly displayed another creative collection of the Chanel tweed suits, and even though I'm one for change, I can appreciate the reworking of a fashion staple. The 2011 Chanel Couture show was magical don't you think?

Fashion 101: Yves Saint Laurent

It has been a while since my blog has mentioned anything about France now that I live in New York City. So for this lesson of Fashion 101 I wanted to feature a true legend to the fashion world, and France's own, Yves Saint Laurent.

As I just visited the Alexander McQueen Exhibition: Savage Beauty at The Met (don't worry that post is coming...and YES it was amazing), I was reminded of an equally great exhibit I had the honor of visiting last summer in Paris. That's right, I had so many posts and photos going up in the summer of 2010 that somewhere amongst the chaos of my cross-Atlantic move, I had a tiny little gold mine of snapshots that got lost in the recesses of my external drive! So here's to another great Fashion 101!

Yves Saint Laurent at the Petit Palais 

along the Seine River...my heart just melts as I think of it. 

**Please note: not all of these photos are the best, I was shooting from the hip...literally... as I was trying to discreetly capture the ambience of the exhibition for you guys without getting caught.**

At 17, Yves Saint Laurent started his career as an assistant to Christian Dior in 1953. Dior gradually accepted more and more of his sketch submissions and named him his successor to the House of Dior. In the Fall of 1957 Dior died unexpectedly of a heart attack and suddenly at 21 Yves Saint Laurent was to direct his first runway line. 

Here are the stats that any true fashionista should know about YSL:

1. Fused Art and Culture with Fashion

In his premier line for the Christian Dior label, he set the world on fire by creating Dior's signature "New Look" with trapeze dresses. 

 {merci Girl's Guide to Paris}

His life was all about art and culture and it was constantly cognisant in his collections. Including his famous YSL color block dress inspired by the well known Mondrian painting, and was just one of many art reinterpretations over the course of his fashion career. His influence was often found outside of Europe as well, and he is credited as the first designer to send ethnic models down his runway, including longtime muse, supermodel Iman.

{merci fashion freax}

2. Founded Ready to Wear

As many designers in the mid sixties meddled with a few pret-a-porter pieces, Yves Saint Laurent was the first to launch a full ready to wear collection in the Fall of 1966. In addition that Fall, he opened the first of his ready to wear stores which he called his Rive Gauche stores, in Paris. Catherine Deneuve was his first customer. 

Fashion fades, style is eternal ~Yves Saint Laurent

3. Uncovered the lost art of Couture

The sixties and seventies were a time where the golden age of decadent couture had long been forgotten, ahem... polyester suits. But as a couturier himself, Yves Saint Laurent's creations brought back haute couture into the spotlight it deserved. 

Haute couture consists of secrets whispered from generation to generation...If in ready to wear, a garment is manufactured according to standard sizes, the haute couture garmet adapts to any imperfection in order to eliminate it. ~Yves Saint Laurent

4. The women's tuxedo suit

YSL's partner and longtime companion Pierre Berge once said, "We often say Chanel has liberated the woman, which is true, but we can also say that YSL gave them the power." No truer words could be spoken. Yves Saint Laurent's designs were specific to empower the woman and pull out her beauty at the same time. In his Fall 1965 collection, YSL introduced Le Smoking, his women's tuxedo pantsuit that changed to female corporate look forever. YSL is also credited with other trends such as safari jackets, thigh high boots, and his coined beatnik look.

{merci wikipedia}

Yves Saint Laurent was a vital piece of the ever evolving landscape of fashion, and experiencing this exhibit was truly breath taking. In the Centre Pompidou on January 22, 2002 YSL showed his last collection before retiring, showcasing 30 new looks and a collection of 300 models emphasizing the highlights over his career. He died of brain cancer on June 1, 2008 in his Paris residence.

I want to thank all the women who have worn my clothes, the famous and the unknown, who have been so faithful to me and given me so much joy. ~Yves Saint Laurent

 {merci yoox.com}

 Thank you Wikipedia and the Petit Palais for your wisdom.

Alexander McQueen | Continuing on the Legend

Alexander McQueen was a rare fashion innovator of our generation. A true legend whose far to early departure left a permanent hole in the fashion industry. As much as I love fashion, it has become an overpopulated industry of copycats. Everyone thinks they can be a fashion designer...and maybe many can, but not everyone can be a fashion visionary...and that is what it takes to run your own label and transform it into a fashion house.

Alexander McQueen was a rare exception. In an age of dying fashion legends, one seemed to have reincarnated in the youthful fearlessness of a spunky Brit. Every season without fail His became the show to anticipate. With never tiring creativity, McQueen's clothes were not the only art on his catwalks by far. He was a rare designer who understood the art of entertaining and married that to his show concepts.

Sarah Burton has taken on the ever impossible task of steering the helm after McQueen's death. And contrary to popular belief (even Women's Wear Daily loves her) I have to say...I'm not impressed. Allow me to explain.

{merci StyleFrizz}

Sarah Burton has created some beautiful pieces, not a lot of color even though the McQueen line was fabulous with that, nonetheless, here are some jewels from Paris Fashion Week Fall 2011:

Photos compliments of WWD.com

But note the following creations...haven't we seen them before?

Oh, riiiight...they are almost identical to Alexander McQueen's former Fall and Spring lines leading up to his untimely bow out.

Sarah Burton - Fall 2011

This photo is thanks to Style.com

McQueen - Spring 2010

This futuristic vision for the line lent to a lot of fitted "body armor" type suits.

Sarah Burton - Fall 2011

McQueen - Fall 2010

This almost nod to Chinese motif was prevalent on many pieces in this collection.

Sarah Burton - Fall 2011

McQueen Fall 2010

And the dropped waist with the exaggerated gather was also a key icon for this collection.

There is a not so fine line between honoring a vision and mimicking past styles, and unfortunately I can't say much for what I believe Sarah Burton is doing. The thing Alexander McQueen was revered for besides his dynamic vision was his constant gear in a new direction. Look how different the looks are from Spring 2010 to Fall 2010 alone! 

On a hopeful note, I can see Sarah Burton has talent, but personally I challenge her to push this to realms of limitless creativity. I can't wait to see the result. 

What do you think mes cheries?

Au Revoir 2010

This year has seemed to have flown by! From staying alone in Warsaw last year, unable to be close to any friends and family...to this year living my dream and snagging a party to watch the ball drop live in NYC... I must say words cannot properly express my elation over the past few months.

I think we're raised to be synical...dream big, but don't get your hopes up because all too often things are not what they seem. Normally this tactic works, as it shelters us from a whole array of disappointing outcomes, but every once and a while you will find yourself pleasantly surprised with sheer happiness. New York has been my surprise, since the days of dress up in my mother's high heels I have dreamed of being a New Yorker. I couldn't wait to prance across town hailing cabs and climbing career ladders... all in the highest of styles of course ;)

This city certainly hazes anyone who dares try to live here, but once you make it in, its absolutely fabulous. So this New Year's I have a bounty of greatness to celebrate. Dreams come true, home sweet home established, and new adventures to embark upon. My favorite thing about New Year's is the look back of the last year, and how many incredible changes can happen in just 365 days. I am sure 2011 will bring about some changes of its own and personally cannot wait set out on the next 365 adventure!

Here is my recap of 2010... what is yours darlings?

{merci weheartit for the photo love}

 Rang in the New Year in a new country!

 Traveled to 4 new countries!

Fell in love in a romantic city!

Life long goal realized!

Not bad. No pressure 2011...

Paris vs NYC

It is interesting to me how depending on the personality, each person will have a different opinion of what the greatest city is. For me, there is no competition to New York City being the most exciting city on the planet. As much as I love Rome for its ancient beauty, Paris for its romance and London for its edgy eccentricity... New York is the place with the excitement, the art, the massive diverse culture, the in-your-face, fast paced excitement that I thrive off of in life. I am learning more and more that I can find a shop or restaurant of anything I may be seeking...of course I will never forsake traveling to the actual cultural origin (traveling is my first love) but for a place to call home, New York takes the cake.

I discovered this graphic artist Vahram Muratyan last week who has done a wonderful rendition of Paris vs New York and I think it is a great graphic print series. You can find more prints as he adds them on his blog Paris vs NYC.

Fashion 101: LBD

"You can wear black at any time, you can wear it at any age. You can wear it on almost any occasion. A 'little black frock' is essential to a woman's wardrobe. I could write a book about black." ~ Christian Dior

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That jaw dropping Little Black Dress has been done a million and one ways over the centuries, and it somehow never goes out of style. But where did it really come from? What catapulted it to stardom? Well mes cheries, any Miley or Gaga can strut her strut her stuff in Versace's latest invention, but to be a truly schooled fashionista, one must know her history. Besides, what is more satisfying than leaving someone speechless who misjudged you as a brainless ditz with a credit card? Put those nay-sayers in their place darlings, fashion is a power house industry and deserves the respect of a full education. So class, sit down and take notes.

Along with the Renaissance, Italy also birthed black as a fashion statement. Seen as far back as 1473 in the triptych by Jean de Witte, featuring a young woman in a lavish velvet gown with an intense scarlet ribbon. Although, the Spaniards are the reason for the initial mass appeal, as black dye was expensive, it became the color of the Spanish Royalty almost exclusively throughout the 16th century.

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Fading in and out of style, black had predominantly declined in the 17th & 18th centuries. The first half of the 19th century, black paved its way as the fashionable color for men, who wore it in the English Style assimilated with merchants and businessmen. By the latter half of the century it became a fashion statement for wealthy women as well. But black was cemented in wardrobe after Sargent painted the Portrait of Madame X, causing a scandal in Paris and emerging it as the color of seduction.

{newyorksocialdiary.com}

The American Vogue of October, 1926 would forever change the game as it unveiled photos of Coco Chanel's "little black dress" that they described as "The Chanel 'Ford' - The frock that all will wear." Chanel had done much experimenting with black garb, but this piece debuted at a time when the world needed simplicity and craved a break from the extravagant canvases of her competitor Paul Poiret.

{weheartit}

Then Hollywood quickly climbed on board, with many starlettes featuring stunning black gowns that were crucial to their characters' role. Christian Dior became infatuated with this idea of minimalist beauty as he began bringing these desires of Hollywood to the runway and then trickling it down to the women who walked the streets. "I have no wish to deprive fashion of the added allure and charm of color, but I could perfectly well design a whole collection simply in black or white. Color cannot transform a failure of a dress into a success; it merely plays a supporting role in the cast where cut is the star performer." (Christian Dior). Continuing the phenomenon, in 1961 Hubert de Givenchy made that very rare and pure movie magic moment with Audrey Hepburn's iconic ensemble in Breakfast at Tiffany's, and women everywhere have never been the same.

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After a minor decline in the 60s, Yves Saint Laurent brought back black in steel force through the 70s and set his name in the history books. Through the next couple decades fashion wavered between whether it found black elegantly sexy or a punk statement toward anarchy. Powerhouse designer Vivienne Westwood created bridges for the fashion-antifashion opposing crowds and was the first to successfully change the industry toward an edgy, goth direction. Gianni Versace made his mark with a gift to blend the hard elements of the punk movement with the timeless seductiveness that we all know and love, and Karl Lagerfeld found a way to bring Chanel into the 21st century. With every turn of the season, designers left and right find new ways to amaze us, and somehow black is still not boring.

Reference: The Black Dress by Valerie Steele

Check it out for more awesome info darlings!

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I wonder what the next

la mode en noire holds mes cheries?