Wednesday, May 21, 2008

A Closer Look



I am currently in full-on Spring shopping mode.

Whenever that happens I usually start the process by looking at my photos from the previous year and seeing what ideas I want to pull forward.

This time ,while I was reviewing old images, I found this side view of one of my favorite Summer shots.

Even though this is a simple look it's brilliantly executed and actually brings up several interesting issues regarding menswear.

First, the half-tuck shirt.
Very difficult to execute

Do you just tuck a tiny bit above the belt buckle?

Do you go for a full-frontal tuck as Mr. Cortina as done here?

I think that how the back of the shirt hangs in more important than the method of front tuckage. The length of the shirt has to be short enough so you dont have a ton of fabric folded up back there.
Polos are usually a safe option for the half-tuck.
In the Summer I will usually only do a half-tuck if I am wearing a jacket so only the front can be seen.
The half-tuck is undeniably comfortable and casual but loaded with so many obstacles.


Second, waistband rolling.
Apparently designers and manufactures think all men huge enormous butts.
I always have so much extra room in the back leg panel of my pants that it is really hard to make khakis look even remotely sexy.
I guess it is true that you never hear I guy asking "Do these Dockers make my butt look hot?"

When I have pants altered, the tailor will often bring up the back panels a little bit at the waistband in a similar way that he will remove a roll on the back of a sportcoat.

On a jacket it is called "dropping the collar" or ,in this situation, I guess it is called "dropping the waistband"

Again rolling the waistband is something i do often but only in the back half of the waistband and only when i am wearing a jacket or coat. (often the inner waistband fabric doesn't blend with the fashion fabric, so you would only want to roll the back half anyway)


Third, two inch pant cuff
Dramatic, formal and yet sporty.
The wider cuff just feels more sturdy than a standard cuff width.

Fourth, Italian pant length
I am sure it will change someday (thats fashion) but right at or slightly above the ankle still looks good to me, especially for casual Summer pants.


Fifth, those half-sock/footie things to wear with dress shoes in the Summer for a "no sock" look.
Personally most of the ones I have tried have been very flimsy and never work well.
This Summer I am going with Nike "no show" running socks or soft suede loafers that are much more comfortable to wear in the heat than hard leather shoes.


I bet you didn't think I could get five issues out of this look.

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